Hopeless Creek and Lake Angelus, Nelson lakes National Park

The second trip of 2015 was a long awaited trip to the Nelson Lakes National Park. We had three days for a trip so pondered a number of different possibilities.

We decided on a pleasant round trip from St Arnaud: Day 1 - St Arnaud to Coldwater Hut, Day 2: Coldwater Hut to Hopeless Hut, up the Hopeless Creek, over Sunset Saddle and down to the tarns before Lake Angelus. Day 3: Tarns to Lake Angelus, then down Roberts Ridge and back to St Arnaud.

Day 1: We plod along the very easy track on the Eastern side of Lake Rotoiti. It's a gentle and pleasant 2hrs walk to Lakehead Hut. Lakehead is a big, ugly hut. There's only a few people in the hut (it sleeps 27), but it's set back away from the lake and the nearby Coldwater Hut is right beside the lake, so we decide to head there instead.

The very serene Lake Rotoiti from St Arnaud

UGLY....Lakehead Hut

The track to Coldwater from Lakehead actually goes South, away from the hut, and DoC estimates a time of 50 minutes to get there. We decide instead to venture across the Travers Valley and river directly to the hut and manage to cross the river without any trouble and arrive at Coldwater 20 minutes later.

Coldwater Hut

Coldwater has much more character, with a beautiful stone open fireplace inside and stone work on the outside. It sleeps 10 and has plenty of room inside. There's four people already at the hut, but they're all very friendly and make great conversation.

My mates Matt and Jude were keen for a swim, but it's clouded over and the wind's picked up, so I don't feel a pressing urge for a swim. Just as well, because soon after Matt and Jude jump in, there's a yell and commotion coming from the water. Jude's been bitten by an eel! It's large enough for it to bleed and we can see the bit marks on the back of his legs.

Jude's eel bite!

The eels hover around the jetty in front of the hut and hold their ground even when prodded with a stick. They're pretty big! They provide great entertainment for half an hour, until the incessant sandflies prove to be too much, and we all venture inside for the hut.

The hut very thoughtfully has bug screens on the windows, so you can ventilate the hut while cooking, without letting a whole horde of sandflies in.

Day 2: The next morning, we get cracking early, as we have a big day ahead of us.

We walk an easy two hours up the Travers Valley to the Hopeless Hut turnoff. Here, the track gradually climbs for an hour and a half to the fantastic Hopeless Hut.

Walking up the Travers Valley

Hopeless oozes with character, with big windows showing off fantastic views of the range, wood paneling all around and even two double mattresses on the bottom rows of the bunks. Also, there's a bonus room downstairs with no mattresses, which could be used as an overflow space if the hut is full.

Hopeless Hut

Hopeless Hut interior

After lunch here, we begin the grunt up to Sunset Saddle, 1000m up! There is a track leading out of the bush from Hopeless and then a cairned route begins. It's hot work in the January sun. At the end of the valley is a big bluffed cliff and waterfall, and the route scrambles up a big scree face, before heading over the waterfall to a beautiful tarn.  The route carries on above the tarn before flattening out alongside another tarn and then climbing steadily again to Sunset Saddle.

We have to somehow get to the top of that waterfall!

Looking down the Hopeless Valley

Scree slope ready for srambling

Tarn above the waterfall

Matt climbing up to the first tarn

Unfortunately, it's clouded in a fair bit, so the views from the saddle aren't that great. We head up nearby Mt Angelus (2,075m) anyway, as we can't be bothered climbing all the way back up to it the next day. It's an easy, if steep, scree scramble. 

View of tarns from Sunset Saddle

From the saddle, we descend to the first tarn and find the one campsite that's not soggy and wet! Matt very bravely goes for a swim in the tarn. After a cramped night of 3 guys in a 2 man tent, we awake to a clear sunny day and descend for an hour past Hinapouri Tarn to Lake Angelus. It's a awesome spot, with great views and a very pleasant setting. Angelus is a large, modern and popular hut, but we were glad to be able to camp away from the all the people the previous night.

Angelus Hut and Lake Angelus

Lake Angelus

Lake Angelus and Angelus Hut

The track back out past Angelus is pretty simple, following gently along Roberts Ridge for 3 hours, before steeply descending to the carpark. The views are just awesome, and we can see most of the peaks of Nelson Lakes, plus the Richmond Ranges and Kahurangi Ranges further North. Being up on the tops for so long on such a clear, sunny day is a magical experience.

Views from Roberts Ridge

Kea Hut

Bushline Hut

St Arnaud and Lake Rotoiti from Roberts Ridge

I decide to take the slightly longer track past Bushline Hut, so I can add to the hut talley, while Matt and Jude go directly down Roberts Ridge. From the carpark, it's about a 45 minute walk to  St Arnaud. A better way to do the loop would be to park at Roberts Ridge carpark and follow the track on the Western side of the lake to Coldwater Hut, which is slightly shorter than the Eastern track and this way would avoid the hot slog along the road back to St Arnaud.

Another great summer trip!

Tramping times:

St Arnaud to Coldwater Hut via the Eastern side of Lake Rotoiti: 2.5hrs
Coldwater Hut to Hopeless Hut: 4hrs
Hopeless Hut to Sunset Saddle: 4hrs
Sunset Saddle to Mt Angelus summit: 15 minutes
Sunset Saddle to Lake Angelus: 1hr
Lake Angelus to Roberts Ridge carpark (direct): 4hrs

Sawcut Gorge, South Malborough, January 2015

Second trip of 2015! A quick jaunt up the Ure river to Sawcut Gorge and Isolation Hut. 

We headed up the didymo infested river from Blue Mountain station, hitting the river after 10 minutes walking through the farm. The track to the gorge and hut is entirely along the river, and involves several river crossings. In January though, the river was low and gently flowing. 

Walking up the Ure River

There are plenty of great swimming holes along the way (and friendly eels!), and it's a pretty scenic place to walk. 

After about an hour's walk, we arrived at Sawcut Gorge. It's pretty spectacular and a very cool place to walk through. 

Sawcut Gorge

Sawcut Gorge

A further hour up the river, we arrived at Isolation Creek Hut. It's a very tidy and well located hut and we had a great night there. Had the place to ourselves until a very attractive British man arrived to keep us company after dinner! 

The next day we retraced our steps back out again! We made sure to clean our boots thoroughly to kill the didymo. 

Isolation Creek Hut

Kaweka Adventure - New Years 2014/15

My family is based in Gisborne, so I head up there for Christmas and some of the summer break. With a bit of time available between Christmas and meeting up with some friends to do some tramping in the South Island, I decided to head to the Kaweka Range with my sister. 

The Kaweka's are an underutilized tramping paradise, about an hour's drive West of Napier. They're too far away from Wellington to venture on weekends so I was quite looking forward to my first overnight tramp in the range. 

After a long time gazing over the Topomaps for the area and there being a multitude of possible adventures, I decided on a loop that would bag 8 huts!

Makahu Saddle Hut

Dominie Biv

We parked in the Makahu Saddle carpark and headed up to Kaweka J, via Makahu Saddle Hut, which is a fantastic ex NZFS hut only 5 minutes from the carpark, Makahu Spur and Dominie Biv. Dominie Biv, halfway up the climb, is a good spot to stop and catch your breath, it's a very cute and cosy biv.  Kaweka J (1,724m) is the highest point in the range and although the carpark is at about 900m, it's still a solid haul up the J. There's a few steep scree sections.

Once on the top, after around two hours of climbing, things flatten out a lot more. This part of the range is quite severely eroded, as I think much of the original vegetation was burned years ago in an attempt to run sheep on it!

On the tops heading towards Kaweka J summit

On the mega cairn at the summit

After reaching the summit, we continued on over the main range down a steepish track for around 2 hours, to the four bunk Back Ridge Hut for the night. It was occupied by a lovely couple and, located beside a small stream, it was a great spot to spend the night. 

Back Ridge Hut

The next day, we begun the steady climb up to Back Ridge Biv. I was quite pleased to have bagged the fourth hut/biv of the trip to date. All of huts so far had been very tidy, well maintained places, all painted in a fresh coat of NZFS orange. I love the distinctive colour and the contrast which it provides against the bush in the background. 

Back Ridge Biv

 From Back Ridge Biv, which was about 1.5hrs from Back Ridge Hut, we headed down a steep track to Rocks Ahead Hut, by the river. Yet another fantastic NZFS hut, I was ecstatic with the hut haul so far. We had lunch here and checked out the very cool cable way to the Rocks Ahead Biv. I wanted to go across on the cable way, but chickened out in the end. But I totally regret that now!

Rocks Ahead Hut

Rocks Ahead interior

From Rocks Ahead, a sign said that it was only 2.5hrs to our next destination, Venison Tops. I'd expected a solid 3.5hrs, so was pleased. However, after 2.5hrs of climbing we were still in the bush and my GPS confirmed we were still some way off. 

I normally plan on slashing a good chunk of time off the posted times on tracks, but I've concluded that the times in the Kaweka's have been calculated by a very fit person. 

We got some great views of the centre of the ranges from Venison Tops, before ducking back into the bush to the large Venison Tops hut. It was New Years eve and we had the hut to ourselves but were in bed before 9pm!

View from Venison Tops

Venison Tops Hut

After a bit of a stormy night, the next morning dawned clear and we headed to Ballard Hut. The track is a gentle one, through bush for an hour or so, before venturing onto the tops for a further hour, with a steep 20 minute scramble down to Ballard, which is at the bush line, just off the ridge. 

Ballard Hut

After Ballard, we completed the loop, walking up and down along the tops for 1.5hrs, over North Kaweka and back to Makahu spur for a fast hour-long descent to the carpark. Walking along the tops on a fine day is one of life's great pleasures and we could almost see right across the North island, from Ruapehu in the West to the sea of Hawkes Bay on the East. A great trip!

On the tops looking towards North Kaweka

On the tops - scant vegetation here