My first trek in India! After trekking in Nepal I was interested to see what trekking in India would be like.
The trekking industry in India is much less developed than Nepal and the main routes are much quieter, despite India's huge population.
The Singalila Ridge trek is about an hour from Darjeeling, in the North Indian foothills of the Himalayas. Guides are mandatory on the trip, so we met our very friendly guide Mane Bhahjang, where the trek starts. Normally the trek is completed over 5 days, but we only had four. So on the fret day we took a jeep up to Tomlung, where most people walk to and spend their first night. It turned out to be a good move since it's a very steep climb, from Mane Bhajhang at 2100m up to 3200m! It's also mostly a 4wd track so bit particularly pleasant. The jeep only took us about an hour! It was very misty on the drive up but upon arriving at Tomlung, the clouds parted for a bit and we got a peak at Katchendonzga, the third highest mountain in the world!
We walked through farms and small villages down to a military checkpoint, since the walk is right along the India/Nepal border. After a cup of tea, we started a steep, relentless slog up to a small village where we had lunch (in Nepal!). The whole walk was shrouded in thick mist and I started to wonder what I'd dragged my sister into, spending almost a third of her two weeks in India doing this thing! Finally, after 19km and 6hrs of walking, we arrived at Sandakphu (3636m). The clouds again parted here and we got some brief views of the surrounding mountains. Sandakphu was very windy and cold so we quickly retreated to the lodge. Although a bit smaller and more basic, the lodge was similar to those found on the Annapurna Circuit and comfortable enough.
There were only two lodges in town and there were maybe 12 people staying in the village all up, so a lot less people than on the Nepal treks. Dinner was the infamous Dal Bhat, the bland Tibetan staple of lentil soup, copious amounts of rice and a small amount of pickle and vegetable curry. It's not all that bad and quite filling but after a month in Nepal, I was throughly sick of it!
The next morning, we rose at dawn to see the sunrise over the surrounding mountains. The morning was clear and the view one of the best I have ever seen. From one spot, you could see 5 of the world's top ten highway mountains, including Mt Everest and Kathendonga. It was very windy and cold though, so we didnt longer too long and went back to he lodge for breakfast.
The same view continued throughout the day, as we walked along the gently undulating ridge to Phalut. The day was sunny but the wind still cold and the ridge is quite exposed. You can see down into Nepal on one side of the ridge, with India on the other side. The walk was about 6.5hrs, and there is nothing along the way except for a border check post and a tin she selling tea and two minute noodles.
The mist started rolling in as we neared Phalut, a two lodge settlement. We chose the nicer of the two, but it was still a vast, soulless place and incredibly cold. We were all wearing all of our clothes inside and still felt the cold! We drunk copious cups of tea to try keep warm. Dinner was again Dal Bhat and we scoffed it down quickly so we could snuggle into our sleeping bags.
There was another dawn viewing scheduled and the thick fog that had engulfed the lodge the previous night was well and truly gone. The view this morning was even more spectacular than the last.
After breakfast we began the 20km trip down to Rimbick, greatful for the lower altitude and warmer temperatures. The lodge in Rimbick was very nice and cosy and the food good, a pleasant change from Phalut.
The next morning we had an undulating 13km to walk to Rimbick, where a jeep would take us back to Darjeeling. The walk is mostly through towns and villages and isn't particularly scenic. The jeep back to Darjeeling took 4hrs and was mostly (though very roughly) sealed the whole way.
We booked everything through our hotel after struggling to find good information on the walk and how to book guides. We paid $200 NZ each, which included the entry fees, food, water, guide, jeeps and accommodation. Our guide was very good and the price paid represents good value. The jeeps would have made up most of this cost and you could save a bit on these by taking shared jeeps, though these tend to be incredibly cramped!
The trekking industry in India is much less developed than Nepal and the main routes are much quieter, despite India's huge population.
The Singalila Ridge trek is about an hour from Darjeeling, in the North Indian foothills of the Himalayas. Guides are mandatory on the trip, so we met our very friendly guide Mane Bhahjang, where the trek starts. Normally the trek is completed over 5 days, but we only had four. So on the fret day we took a jeep up to Tomlung, where most people walk to and spend their first night. It turned out to be a good move since it's a very steep climb, from Mane Bhajhang at 2100m up to 3200m! It's also mostly a 4wd track so bit particularly pleasant. The jeep only took us about an hour! It was very misty on the drive up but upon arriving at Tomlung, the clouds parted for a bit and we got a peak at Katchendonzga, the third highest mountain in the world!
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| Start of the walk, in Tomlung |
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| A misty day 1 |
We walked through farms and small villages down to a military checkpoint, since the walk is right along the India/Nepal border. After a cup of tea, we started a steep, relentless slog up to a small village where we had lunch (in Nepal!). The whole walk was shrouded in thick mist and I started to wonder what I'd dragged my sister into, spending almost a third of her two weeks in India doing this thing! Finally, after 19km and 6hrs of walking, we arrived at Sandakphu (3636m). The clouds again parted here and we got some brief views of the surrounding mountains. Sandakphu was very windy and cold so we quickly retreated to the lodge. Although a bit smaller and more basic, the lodge was similar to those found on the Annapurna Circuit and comfortable enough.
There were only two lodges in town and there were maybe 12 people staying in the village all up, so a lot less people than on the Nepal treks. Dinner was the infamous Dal Bhat, the bland Tibetan staple of lentil soup, copious amounts of rice and a small amount of pickle and vegetable curry. It's not all that bad and quite filling but after a month in Nepal, I was throughly sick of it!
The next morning, we rose at dawn to see the sunrise over the surrounding mountains. The morning was clear and the view one of the best I have ever seen. From one spot, you could see 5 of the world's top ten highway mountains, including Mt Everest and Kathendonga. It was very windy and cold though, so we didnt longer too long and went back to he lodge for breakfast.
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| Kanchendzonga from Sandapkphu |
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| One of those peaks on the right is Mt Everest! |
The same view continued throughout the day, as we walked along the gently undulating ridge to Phalut. The day was sunny but the wind still cold and the ridge is quite exposed. You can see down into Nepal on one side of the ridge, with India on the other side. The walk was about 6.5hrs, and there is nothing along the way except for a border check post and a tin she selling tea and two minute noodles.
The mist started rolling in as we neared Phalut, a two lodge settlement. We chose the nicer of the two, but it was still a vast, soulless place and incredibly cold. We were all wearing all of our clothes inside and still felt the cold! We drunk copious cups of tea to try keep warm. Dinner was again Dal Bhat and we scoffed it down quickly so we could snuggle into our sleeping bags.
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| The room in Phalut |
There was another dawn viewing scheduled and the thick fog that had engulfed the lodge the previous night was well and truly gone. The view this morning was even more spectacular than the last.
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| Disgusting squat toilets |
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| Lodge in Rimbik |
After breakfast we began the 20km trip down to Rimbick, greatful for the lower altitude and warmer temperatures. The lodge in Rimbick was very nice and cosy and the food good, a pleasant change from Phalut.
The next morning we had an undulating 13km to walk to Rimbick, where a jeep would take us back to Darjeeling. The walk is mostly through towns and villages and isn't particularly scenic. The jeep back to Darjeeling took 4hrs and was mostly (though very roughly) sealed the whole way.
We booked everything through our hotel after struggling to find good information on the walk and how to book guides. We paid $200 NZ each, which included the entry fees, food, water, guide, jeeps and accommodation. Our guide was very good and the price paid represents good value. The jeeps would have made up most of this cost and you could save a bit on these by taking shared jeeps, though these tend to be incredibly cramped!
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