Managaweka and Purity Hut, March 2012

Another great trip to the Ruahines (two years ago, to provide some history to this blog), this time to the Western side of the range.

The weather forecast was looking great, so we decided to give camping on the tops a whirl. 

The first part of the trip, from Mangakukeke Rd, crosses a farm, and we walk across this for about 45 minutes. The last part of this is a VERY steep climb, but thankfully not too long a one, to reach a fence and the entrance to the Ruahine Forest Park. 

The track then tapers off slightly, before climbing steadily again towards Purity Hut. Almost all approaches in the Ruahines are quite steep, but it does mean that the tops can be reached very quickly.

But I find steep climbs quite motivating, as I love the quick progression to the tops, spurred on by the changes in vegetation suggesting that that final burst through to the open tussock isn't far off. Unlike walking on undulating terrain, you feel like you're making good progress towards your target. 

Not far from the bushline, after about 2.5hrs walking, we reach Purity Hut. 

Purity Hut

Purity hut occupies a spectacular location, with commanding views across the lumpy Rangitikei landscape.  

Only built in 2006, the 6-bunk hut is very clean and tidy. With double-glazed windows and a wood fire, coupled with its compact size, it would be a very cozy place to spend the night. Though I feel the hut's best feature is its longdrop. Although the standard is improving, longdrops are a necessary evil in the New Zealand backcountry. The smell, the grime, the presence of huge blowflies, that you are paranoid about coming into contact with because you know where they ate last. They're horrid, dark pits of filth. In short, they're places to be avoided. Spectacularly shit (haha). Hold on if you can. 

Purity hut's longdrop is none of these things. It is very clean and tidy, almost pure. Like it's the sacred  dunny of the Ruahines. But best of all it has a window in its door (you can see out but not in), and that door faces out to the West, where the views of the Rangitikei and Ruapehu are. A great place to settle in the morning and read the Sunday paper (or FMC magazine as it might be up here!).

But as fascinating as the longdrop is, we have to move on. There's much more climbing ahead to reach our campsite for the night. 

After another hour or so, we reach Wooden Peg (1672m). To our left is the featureless Mangaweka, which at 1731m, is the highest point in the Ruahines. A true peak bagger would probably make the 45 minute return trip, but it's a bit too clagged in when we approach and none of us think we'd get any real satisfaction from the extra effort to the top.  

So after a short break, we turn right, and down towards Kelly Knight hut. Although often brutal in their approach, the Ruahine tops are relatively gentle, wider, and more rolling than their Tararua counterparts. Because of this, and because they're studded with tarns, they're much more ideal for camping. Not to mention that the weather is often more favourable as well. 

The other good thing about the Ruahine tops is that there are a lot more poled routes than the Tararuas. Although they not frequent enough to take away from the wilderness experience, and that there's still only a small proportion of routes with poles, it provides a good option for tops travel in low cloud, and makes them more accessible to people without a great deal of navigation experience. 

Walking down from Wooden Peg - our campsites lay just ahead by the tarns

We spot a nice, flattish section of the ridge ahead where we can plonk our tents for the night, and settle in for the rest of the afternoon.  

We settle down and pitch our tents. We'd brought up mini bottles of Lindauer, which we crack open and enjoy in the sun. Although it's warm lying the sun, as soon as it hides behind the clouds, it becomes freezing. Eventually, the coming and going of the cloud forces us to relent and retreat to our tents to warm up.

After dinner (tramping staple: pasta, pasta sauce, veges and chorizo) we go for a short stroll to a nearby peak to check out the lights of the towns laid out ahead. We can see Palmerston North, Fielding, Wanganui even. It's quite cool, feeling like you're high above them.

Looking East from our campsite

The next morning, we awoke to an incredible sunrise, with views right out over to Mt Ruapehu. 

Not a bad spot to be in while eating your morning porridge. 

Shortly afterwards, we begin the descent down to Kelly Knight hut and the car. The track in this part is hidden by the long tussock grass. Normally this isn't that much of a problem, as you can find the track quite easily as you walk along. But when you're going downhill, on a relatively steep descent, the tussock hides short, sharp drops. It's quite hilarious watching the person in front of you briefly disappear from view as they encounter a drop and slide down between the tussock on their bums!

Heather, Nick and Bart: Re-grouped after a bit of sliding down the hill

The walk down is very pleasant - nothing too steep or nasty and the sun and calm winds make for a nice morning on the tops. 

Not too far from the road-end, we hit the turn-off to Kelly Knight hut. The sign says it's about 30 minutes walk away, and we vote not to bother with the detour. Though I now wish I'd made the effort, as it looks like a pleasant hut, and with my current obsession with hut-bagging, my 2014 self would never miss such a close opportunity to bag a hut. Hopefully I can make up for it in future by spending the night there. 

The rest of the trip is a straight-forward, easy descent along the Pourangaki river and across a pleasant few kilometres of farmland back to the car.

Heather proving that she's not just a pack with legs

A fantastic loop in the Ruahines, that's easily achievable in a weekend. A pleasant combination of bush, farmland, tops and a bit of river, along with a couple of very cosy huts (presuming Kelly Knight is as nice as it looks in pictures on the internet!). 

Approx timings:

Mangakukeke Road-end to Purity Hut: 2.5-3hrshrs

Purity Hut to Wooden Peg: 1.5hrs

Wooden Peg to Kelly Knight Hut: 2-3hrs

Kelly Knight Hut to Mangakuke road-end: 2.5-3hrs

Howletts Hut, March 2014

I thought I'd start the blog with a post about what was quite possibly my most favourite hut I've ever had the privilege to spend a night in. Howletts Hut. 

When sifting across the Topo Maps of the Ruahines, which I sometimes do when bored in the evenings, the Longview-Howletts-Daphne loop often stuck out as a cool place to go. 

Finally, in March this year, I'd arranged to head there with a mate.

We got to Hawkes Bay on a gorgeous, sunny day. Unfortunately my Toyota station wagon did not take a liking to steep gravel hill climbs, spinning out on a section of Kashmir Road. After initial fears of skidding off the road down the cliff below, or not being able to get to the carpark, the car finally managed to skid its way up the remaining third of the hill. Tip for next time: take a 4WD, or build up a good amount of speed before tackling the climb. We eventually hit the track up to Longview Hut around midday.

The vegetation is quite bare along this section, meaning the hut can be seen for most of the walk up to it. This is initially useful, being able to see the target and realising it wasn't all too far away. But there's this annoying bit in the middle where the hut suddenly seems to get pushed further away and you realise it's not as easy as you first thought. 

But after an hour and a half slog we reach Longview Hut, and are rewarded with clear views out over Central Hawkes Bay.

Although offering good views, Longview, built in 1979 by the NZ Deerstalkers Association, is not an attractive hut by any means. It has a high pitched ceiling, which is never welcome in a hut of this altitude (1200m), and a boring, characterless interior. It's not a place where I'd like to spend a night after a cold day in the hills. But it does have a great deck, and we join a hunter and his dogs there for lunch.

Longview Hut interior

From Longview, the track becomes a poled route. I maintain that since our high point of the day is Otumore (1519m), and we're already at 1200m, it won't be much more of a climb to go. It turns out 319 is a long way up, especially when you have to go up, then down, then up again. And ESPECIALLY when there are about three false peaks on the way up. You know, the ones where you think you're about to crest the top, but as soon as you reach the horizon, there's another monster that pops up that has to be climbed. 

Dr Dan climbing up from Longview Hut with Hawkes Bay in the background. Longview is just over the ridge stretching to the right of the photo

Finally, we reach Otumore and the turn off to Top Gorge Hut. From here the tops flatten out a bit and views of the Western side of the range open up, which is a refreshing change from the wall of tussock we've been facing for the past 90 minutes. 

Looking North West from just past Otumore

The trail is barely defined in some places, but the poles appear regularly enough that there is no trouble finding the route on the clear day. Annoyingly, though, the poles are just plain rusted metal with no coloured markers on top and they tend to blend in to the landscape a bit so can take a bit of scanning to find the next one. After a windy but pleasant hour on the ridge, we come across a group of four trampers having a break at the intersection to Daphne Hut. Two of them look a bit like they're the men from the Mainland Cheese ad, complete with border collie. 

There's one major climb left before the hut, and with the knowledge that the 10-bunk Howletts Hut can be a popular place on a Saturday night, we figure we can push on past the guys to try and gain at least a bit of a lead and beat them to the hut. 

Although the climb proves to be less of an effort than expected, the next stretch, going slightly downhill, is a mission. There is a lot of leatherwood to push through before reaching the hut. And it takes FOREVER. Definitely gaiter territory here. However, there always seems to be a way through/around it, but finding it takes a lot of trial and error and we generally just give up and try to push through it. 

Dan pushing through the leatherwood

Eventually, though, we reach Howletts. It proves to be perfect timing. There is one guy at the hut when we arrive (who just happened to be part way through a trip walking from the East Cape down to Wellington). Literally seconds after we arrive, the first members of a group of 7 arrive. With the four guys we passed also due to spend the night at the hut, we're very happy to have reached the hut when we did to secure a bunk. Thankfully, some of the group decide to pop down to Daphne hut to spend the night, and a couple opt for a night on the deck, so everyone's happy in the end. 

Howletts hut is superbly located. It's placed in a snug hollow on a ridge, with steep drops on either side. When looking out from the front deck, it almost feels like you're in a giant tree hut. This version of the hut was built in the 70s, but it has a character far beyond its years. I just love the bright NZFS orange roof and the contrast with the freshly painted blue walls. It's a well loved and cared for hut. It has a hand carved hut book case, a cute crows nest space above the front door for two mattresses and a library of reading material, much of it carefully placed in clearfiles. Howletts is owned and maintained by the Heretaunga Tramping Club, and has been in the same spot since 1893 (this is the third version), when an eccentric local schoolteacher, William Howlett, plonked a hut in the spot. 

There's not a great deal of space in the hut - no table either, and so the evening (after the Kaweka butter chicken had been devoured for dinner) was spent lounging in the bunks eating chocolate and reading the newspaper we'd carted up, until it got dark enough to sleep. A thick blanket of clouds quickly rolled in during the evening, as if the Ruahines were being tucked into bed, too.

But the next morning, the Ruahines had definitely gotten out of bed. I awoke to this gorgeous view from the bunk. Pretty impressive. It almost felt like we were on a plane, with the lower layer of cloud smothering Hawkes Bay below.  

After a breakfast of oats and coffee, we left the hut and walked down the knee-jarringly steep Daphne ridge down to Daphne hut. 

Daphne Hut is a pleasant, if unusually shaped, A-frame hut. Plenty of space, but the valley was very cold and dark in the morning. Not much sun down here.

From Daphne hut, we walked down the Tukituki river for a bit. It proved to be a nice contrast from the tops and bush travel and it was nice to have a gentle gradient.It was a very shallow, meandering river. 

North Branch of the Tukituki River, just downstream from Daphne Hut

Next up was the final climb of 600m or so, up over a ridge on the way back to Kashmir Road. The gradient wasn't too bad though. By the time we started going back down, Dan's knee was playing up and he was forced to go down the hill sideways, even backwards on the steepest sections, whatever hurt less. Near the top of the ridge before dropping back down to the carpark, we managed to get a wee glimpse of Sawtooth Ridge in the distance. I'd love to do that trip one day.  

After a short walk back along Kashmir Road to the car, we had an uneventful drive out on the gravel road. 

A satisfying round trip, with some fantastic views.  

Approx timings:

Kashmir Rd (Moorcock Saddle) to Longivew Hut: 1.5hrs
Longivew Hut to Otumore: 1.5hrs
Otumore to Daphne Hut turn off: 1hr
Daphne Hut turn off to Howletts: 1hr
Howletts to Daphne Hut: 1.5hrs
Daphne Hut to Kashmir Rd: 3hrs